AS everyone at the table lets out an exuberant “Skål”, I tuck into the first of five courses.
I’m at an evening of “social dining” at Gro Spiseri, Denmark’s first rooftop farm, with sunset views – and 24 strangers.
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We enjoy mushrooms on toast with cured halibut, and Birch Tree ice-cream in a fairy-lit wood-burner greenhouse.
Host Rhea explains any kitchen waste from tonight will be scoffed by the farm’s chickens – and their waste will fertilise the veggies, many of which are donated to local families.
It’s an eco dream! Five courses cost £65 (Grospiseri.dk).
Home for the weekend is the Ibis Styles Copenhagen Ørestad, which opened this year and is a cool, sociable place to stay, with bright banquettes and graffiti art.
Even better, doubles – with views over Amager Fælled woodland – cost from just £115 per night (All.accor.com).
Next morning I fill up on the cinnamon buns, salt muffins, and ginger shots from the hotel breakfast buffet. Then, the Metro station outside whisks me to the city in less than 15 minutes.
Sail the Century
You’re never far from water here, so exploring by boat is a no-brainer.
Green Kayaks allows you to borrow a kayak in exchange for picking up litter on the way.Greenkayak.org).
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I’m game, so slide into one at La Banchina.
This trendy bathing and sauna spot in Refshaleøen is also a great place to relax afterwards.
Bathing is free, while the sauna costs £46 for 1 hour 45 minutes (Labanchina.dk).
Having worked up an appetite, I head to hidden-gem Kanalhuset to try the locals’ fave, smørrebrød – AKA open sandwiches.
Both the curried herring and the roast beef with hazelnuts, £8.75 each, are ridiculously tasty.
It’s traditional to pair them with alcoholic snaps, and they make their own with flavours like brown butter, and rhubarb and vanilla, £5.80 (Kanalhusetcph.com).
A 10-minute walk away is Hey Captain, a boat tour company offering “social sailing” – where you get to know your fellow passengers as well as the sights.
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Once on board, Captain Nis keeps chat flowing, while pointing out traditional landmarks, like Nyhavn’s colourful 17th-century merchant houses, once home to Hans Christian Anderson, plus newer landmarks, including the city’s power plant, which has a ski slope on its roof.
Tours cost from £23 for one hour (Heycaptain.dk).
Vintage finds
If you’re into antiquities, Glyptotek – the collection of Carlsberg Brewery founder Carl Jacobsen – is worth a visit.
It’s a work of art in itself, with palm trees, paintings and Egyptian mummies (Glyptoteket.com).
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The gift shop is tempting, but instead, I strike out for Jægersborggade’s indie stores, where I rifle through rails of second-hand Ganni at Tú A Tú (Tuatu.dkVanishing Point, and admiring knitted garms (Vanishing-point.dk).
I round things off at food court Broens Gadekøkken.
The legacy of former world’s best restaurant, Noma,lives on here – and more affordably – thanks to alumni chefs serving everything from experimental tacos, £13 for three, at Hija de Sanchez, to next-level cheeseburgers, £11, at Gasoline Grill.
As I give a chef’s kiss goodbye to the city, I know I’ll be back for seconds.
BTW
Plan your trip at Visitdenmark.com.
A Copenhagen Card costs £78 for 48 hours and covers public transport and more than 80 attractions (Copenhagencard.com).
Flights from the UK to Copenhagen start from £37 return.