PARIS — The atelier — the workshop of hands — took the DiorOn Monday, the center stage will be used for a sophisticated show on the first day Paris Couture Week, which aims to elevate the work of the house’s behind-the-scenes seamstresses.
Stars flocked to the Musee Rodin venue in large numbers, including Rosamund Pike. “The Crown”Claire Foy, star of Claire Foy, posed for the cameras and exclaimed: “It’s beautiful. I’m in awe.”
Paris Fashion Week has been subject to stringent regulations in order to follow French government guidelines amid an increase in omicron-driven infections. However, oneModels and actresses are invited as VIPs Cara DelevingneHe was criticized for not wearing a mask.
Paris Fashion WeekJulia Fox and Ye are seen in full denim on their first red carpet appearance as a couple
Here are some highlights of Monday’s spring-summer 2022 couture collections:
Dior celebrates the craft
Maria Grazia Chiuri, a designer, wanted to demonstrate how the craft of the “petites mains”Many seamstresses worked for Dior for decades.
This muse was the springboard to a lavish and archetypally couture display.
One example of this was the intricate white beaded tapestry embellishments that adorned a structured ecru twill wool coat. Here more than ornamental, the chic embroideries actually created the garment’s silhouette through sheer heaviness and swag.
A skirt in ash gray crepe with a high waist made the same statement elsewhere. The long, intricate embroidery on the model that looked almost human gave it a lifelike quality.
Chiuri appeared to be saying through the clothes: Art and craft are the same.
Embroidered tights were also a big theme for spring, with Dior’s army of seamstresses having gone to work in embellishing several statement pieces. The sheer weight of paillette embroidery did not always make for flattering tights, even though they were well executed.
In terms of style, there were hints to the 1960s. Peter Pan collars appeared on sensuous sheer organza blouses and neat Bar silhouette tuxedo suits.
Cara Delevingne ignores Mask Policy
COVID-19, which has brought down the fashion industry, has caused numerous cancellations and even ended entire seasons. Fashion shows are now being rescheduled on condition that guests present proof of vaccinations and don’t wear masks while they sit. It’s the same rule for everyone whether celebrity or journalist. France is currently registering Europe’s highest-ever daily coronavirus cases.
Rosamund Pike, actress, set a good example by meticulously putting on her makeup as soon as she sat down. Nearby, “The Crown”After passing the photocall, Claire Foy donned a mask.
Cara Delevingne was a model and actress, but she turned heads because she didn’t wear a mask while watching the creations from the front row.
Schiaparelli reaches out to a higher power in search of answers
Daniel Roseberry stated that his couture collection was his response to the needs of the customer. “pervasive sense of exhaustion”And that “lackluster”Many feel the pandemic has brought them comfort.
In particular, the Schiaparelli designer asked himself at the drawing board how the house’s signature Surrealist motifs — first espoused by the late, great Elsa Schiaparelli between the two World Wars — can be relevant in a world where reality itself was in flux.
What is the answer? He went up into the heavens and channeled the celestial. He explained that it was a case “of “a move towards the elemental”To understand the chaos.
The couture collection became the domain of the high-couture priestess. She wore exaggerated circular headdresses and wore black, gold and white and was gleaming and radiant.
Gold jewelry — a specially created shade in 24K leaf — hovered around a model’s bust in all directions as if suspended by supernatural powers. The column silhouettes were arranged into white bodices with spliced seams that opened at the bust like a space age flower or into a huge graphic bejeweled black bib.
Some of the silhouettes verged on pastiche, such as jutting spikes that emanated incoherently from a model’s bust.
But the fastidious construction of many gowns — one had gold tentacles spilling down like a jellyfish — surely made up for it. The palatial setting — Le Petit Palais — with its myriad moldings and busts also added to the Grecian drama.
Gaultier remembers Thierry Mulgler
Thierry Mugler (French fashion designer) has died aged 73. His theatrical designs were worn on celebrities such as Madonna and Lady Gaga. His official Instagram account announced that he had died on Sunday.
Jean Paul Gaultier was a contemporary of Mugler, who loved his work. Mugler is known for his architectural style which features broad shoulders and a narrow waist. There has been much written over the years about the tensions that existed between the fashion giants. Gaultier claimed that these rumors belong in the past.
Gaultier sent The Associated Press a bittersweet message Monday in which he said that his old acquaintance had now passed away. “gone to revamp the angels and demons up there. The sky was his color.”
“Enormous talent,”He added. “Always in search of perfection with his unique style!”
Paris Fashion Week beginsWith emerging talent and hybrid shows amid pandemic
Azzaro shimmers and shines
Olivier Theyskens brings out romantic qualities in everyone. In Monday’s embellished affair, the Azzaro designer let rip with the sequins and shimmer and came into his own with unapologetic couture.
It seemed that the brand, with its sparkling razzmatazz, attracted stars like Brigitte Barrot and Sophia Loren in their 60s and 70s heydays, had found in Theyskens just the right ambassador.
The designs were fluid in every sense of that word. First, the way the gleaming loose tuxedos draped down the bodies. For mixing womenswear with menswear in androgynous coed designs.
The house’s iconic long 70s dresses were revamped, in one instance with a pared-down aesthetic and plunging bare-all neckline that finished in a hoop at the midriff.
The brand’s small details, such as the bead embroideries at each shoulder, remained true, yet were subtle.
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