Get up close and personal with the king of the jungle: A heartwarming wild expedition
The silverback tears a boulder-size bamboo root up from the forest floor as if picking up a mere twig, and begins to munch voraciously.
As he eats, he lets out a low grunt, a guttural “Uggh, Uggh.” Our ranger then relaxes: “He is content, we are welcome.”
We are just metres from the mountain gorilla, the world’s largest living primate — the flash of silver fur across his broad back glinting in the sunlight.
Beside him, a lively toddler mimics his bamboo gathering on smaller slivers of fresh root.
A mother clutching a baby close to her chest watches on indulgently.
It’s rainy season in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park and the fresh bamboo that grows seasonally on the mountain’s lower slopes is an irresistible treat for the Susa family.
Packed full of sugar, the gorillas gorge on the green canes.
One park warden laughs: “They love to get a little dizzy and drunk on it.”
So busy are the family, they show no interest in our group and wander from thicket to thicket, brushing past our legs without a care.
I am astonished as to just how close we are.
Before setting off on this once-in-a-lifetime trip I had imagined admiring them from afar, taking a sneak peek through dense forest.
But here they are, happy for us to wander almost amongst them.
Under the Watchful Eye: The Natural Care of Nursing Mothers
Obviously, this is done under the watchful eye of our experienced rangers and guides.
They spend their lives caring for the gorillas that were once hunted to almost extinction.
We follow their instructions to the letter.
Never stare directly into the eyes of a silverback. Give the nursing mothers a wide berth.
This is their territory and we must respect that.
The Susa family, now numbering around 22, is one of 12 families of mountain gorillas that call the Volcanoes National Park their home.
The park is part of the Virunga Mountains range of extinct volcanoes that encompasses northern Rwanda, southern Uganda, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.
Spectacular Journey: The Adventure of the Trek
Setting off from the lovely Serena Hotel in the capital Kigali long before dawn, we arrive at Kinigi at 7 am.
It’s a two-and-a-half-hour drive, and for those with deeper pockets, there’s even the chance to take a helicopter to shave an hour off that journey.
On arrival, we are briefed before driving to a small village at the base of the Volcanoes National Park.
Here, we are encouraged to secure the services of a local porter.
It is this community involvement that is at the heart of the conservation success story that is Rwanda’s gorillas.
Where once there were poachers, now there are porters, who for around £10 are happy to hold heavy bags and proffer a helping hand when the terrain gets tricky.
Thanks to the work with local communities, the Volcanoes gorilla population has grown from a critically endangered 242 to more than 604.
Conclusion
The journey to see the mountain gorillas in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park is an experience like no other. From getting up close and personal with these magnificent creatures to learning about the conservation efforts to protect them, it’s a trip worth every penny. Whether you’re a nature enthusiast or simply someone looking for an adventure, this expedition offers a once-in-a-lifetime experience. So, pack your bags, put on those sturdy hiking boots, and get ready for an unforgettable encounter with the king of the jungle.