MIAMI BEACH, Fla. — Louis Vuitton’s first ever U.S. fashion show turned into a somber yet whimsical TributeTo a groundbreaking designer Virgil AblohSeveral days later, he died.
Miami’s menswear event was an informal kickoff to Art Basel. It had been planned for several months. Star-studded guests were transported by yachts to the island event. Celebrities were among the guests Kim Kardashian West with her daughter North, Ye, the rapper once known as KanyeWestModel Bella Hadid, Ricky Martin, Rauw Alejandro,Joe Jonas, MalumaAnd Pharrell, arrived in stylish LV monogrammed Silver speedboats.
After-party with Kid Cudi and Erykah Badu. “Hey Virgil,”She yelled at her set’s beginning, and later said so. “we want to see you fly.”
Abloh, Who died Sunday following a long fight with cancerAs the head of the legendary French fashion house, he was well-known for his curiosity and eagerness to teach a child a sense of playfulness. His innovative blend of streetwear with high couture made him one the most famous tastemakers.
A focal point of the show was a giant, red LV monogrammed hot air balloon that puffed flames as Abloh’s voice was heard in the background.
The brand’s CEO Michael Burke said Abloh’s wife and family wanted the show to go on. The young designer had just spoken with him on Saturday night and described the inspiration for the show to be a sort of coming of age. “inspiring future generations was very important to Virgil.”
“We had imagined it all and he was distraught not to be here in person,”Burke.
Models paraded the runway in a slender, flowing style, showcasing the collection, which featured everything from neon-colored amphibian, Aqua-gear, and letterman-style school sweaters, to snow bunny looks with furry Boots.
A sleek, matte black ensemble resembled SWAT gear and military-style suits in olive with belted jackets. There were also brightly colored Southern-belle-style hoop skirts. Prints included tie dye hues and the redone checkered logo in new colors.
While the clothes were like Abloh — playful, colorful and vibrant — the mood was somber. Many in the audience wept during and after the show. They stood up to offer comfort or hugged one another.
It was awkward that there was so little clapping at its end. Contrary to most shows, nobody got up to talk or mingle, but rather sat in silence.
The designer’s traditional finale bow was not coming and never would again and as fireworks lit up the Miami skyline, the audience seemed painfully aware of his absence.
Instead, the show circled back to the bold hot air balloon as the designer’s voice said “life is short”For “worrying about what someone thinks you can do versus knowing what you can do” — a sort of anthem that a generation of young fans rallied behind.
Lamont Spears traveled from Atlanta just for the show, wearing a fuzzy LV monogrammed hoodie coat and a sweatshirt with Abloh’s picture.
“It’s a very sad moment, but we’ve got to celebrate his life, we’ve got to keep on pushing because he made a way for us to keep going, to keep being confident,”According to the 35-yearold. “He showed me that I can.”
Abloh in 2018 became the first Black man to serve as Louis Vuitton’s director of men’s wear in the French design house’s storied history. His first-generation Ghanaian American mother taught him how to sew.
New York stylist Memsor Kamarake, who saw Abloh’s first show in Paris, flew in specifically for the final tribute, saying through tears after the fireworks, “I felt like now I can finally grieve him.”
“So often Black folks are depicted through pain, through struggle, that’s why it was so important for him to tap into this childlike joy,”Kamarake said.
A red carpet led to an outdoor party, and the sky lit up with red dots. They danced in many configurations before joining together to say “Virgil was here.”
Abloh, who in 2013 founded Off-White as his own label, had a wide creative presence that went beyond clothing. His sculpture “Dollar a Gallon,”Unveiled at Art Basel this week, is a commentary regarding the effects of advertising upon the impressionable.
He also designed furniture for IKEA, refillable bottles for Evian and Big Mac cartons for McDonald’s. His work was shown at the Louvre, Gagosian, and Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago.
Abloh was a major influence on streetwear. He interned with Ye at the LVMH brand Fendi, was the rapper’s creative director and scored a Grammy nomination as art director for the 2011 Ye-Jay-Z album “Watch the Throne.”
“I think it’s going to be the most important moment ever in LV history,”David Filipucci, 21, a 21-year old who traveled from the Netherlands in order to attend the show, said.
“LV for the moment is Virgil. He made it more special.”
“A once in a lifetime creative mind”: Kanye West, Kim Kardashian more mourn designer Virgil Abloh
