OXYGEN helmet fitted tightly around my head, I take a long stride through the water, brushing my foot against a stingray’s tail as I lift my leg.
While the sharks hover above me, unaffected by my presence below, colourful fish of almost every variety weave their way through the pool.
In total, there are 65,000 marine creatures swimming alongside me, and I haven’t even left my hotel.
I’m at the bottom of the famous Ambassador Lagoon Aquarium in Dubai’s Atlantis hotel.
This is essentially a humongous fish tank, which dominates the lobby in the East Tower — and hotel guests and visitors have the unique chance to hop inside it on this Aquatrek Extreme experience.
With my instructor as my guide, I descend 30 feet down a ladder with my GoPro camera in hand, to capture every moment.
As someone who’s not a fan of heights or the sea, I’m shaking with fear, but feel almost instantly elated when I see the hordes of bright sea creatures just within touching distance in front of me.
Located on Dubai’s artificial island, The Palm, Atlantis is just huge — with more than 1,500 hotel rooms, two towers and 28 restaurants serving cuisine from the likes of Nobu Matsuhisa and Gordon Ramsay.
And we get stuck in straight away at Saffron restaurant’s outrageously lavish brunch.
It costs £103 a head, but this is no ordinary nosh. You get unlimited food and drinks, a DJ, musicians — and sequin-clad dancers on podiums.
You will also enjoy delicious food, including juicy lobsters and loaded bao buns.
We watch, fascinated, as groups of expat Brits arrive dolled up in cocktail frocks and heels (the brunch isn’t just for hotel guests).
The area right next to the sushi counter is now a dance floor and conga lines are weaving through the restaurant.
It is strange to party during the middle of a day.
Dubai, in many ways is a city of contradictions.
Although alcohol, dancing, loud music, and public displays or affection are prohibited, hotels are allowed to serve breakfast mimosas. Influencers in thong bikinis and are permitted to enjoy them.
And with each hotel crammed full of entertainment, there’s no need to leave the resorts.
The Atlantis has a fabulous fit-ness centre and spa — with all the standard facilities, from hammam baths to Jacuzzis and saunas, plus special experiences like under- water yoga against the backdrop of the stunning aquarium.
There’s also paddleboarding, wave machines, sea lion meet-and-greets and helicopter tours.
The resort even has its own beach and swanky beach club, (£41 per guest for weekday entry, including £20 for food and drinks), with a perfectly manicured stretch of sand that leads to an infinity pool overlooking the sea and city.
SPICY MARGARITAS
And the fun isn’t just reserved for daytime. Head to the Imperial Club Lounge at night.
To gain Imperial Club access, you will need to upgrade your visit. However, for an additional cost, you can get free champagne, cocktails, and canapes between 5 and 7pm.
An Atlantis holiday wouldn’t be complete without a trip to the Aquaventure Waterpark (free for hotel guests) — one of the largest in the world with 105 slides.
While I wasn’t brave enough to tackle the world’s tallest waterslide, Odyssey of Terror, I got plenty of screams in on the other rides. Allow plenty of time for queuing.
If you’ve got cash to splash, it’s well worth shelling out for a private cabana with sunloungers, huge lockers, a massive fruit platter and, most importantly, a butler.
The Arabian Terrace bar offers a beautiful view of the pool, and we enjoy the best spicy margaritas.
They’re not on the menu but staff will serve you anything you want.
And that’s exactly what makes this place so special.
It’s not just the incredible food or thrilling waterpark rides (though they’re up there).
It’s having anything you desire at your fingertips — celeb treatment, without the status.
DUBAI: GO
HOW TO GET THERE British Airways flies from London to Dubai from £480 return. See ba.com
STAY THERE One night room-only in an Imperial Club King Room, sleeping three adults, at Dubai’s Atlantis, The Palm, starts from £690. See atlantis.com/dubai
OUT & ABOUT: An Aquatrek Extreme experience at the hotel costs £175pp